for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from March to September, but to be obtained all the year round.
The Rouen Duck, bred largely in Normandy, is a large and handsome variety of duck. Its plumage is somewhat sombre, and its flesh is darker and less delicate in flavour than the Aylesbury duck, with which breed the Rouen duck is usually mated, the result being an increase of size and strength. These ducks abound in Normandy and Brittany, and duck-liver patés are a popular relish in those districts.
The Shoveller-Duck is characterized by its long hooked bill, with a broadened tip. Its head and neck are green, and the colour of its body brown, with white underneath. It inhabits Britain during the winter.
1213.—DUCK, SALMI OF. (Fr.—Salmis de Canard aux Olives.)
Ingredients.—1 duck (or remains of cold ducks), 12 stoned French olives, 1½ ozs. of butter, 1 oz. of flour, ¾ of a pint of stock, 1 medium-sized Spanish onion, fat for basting, salt and pepper.
Method.—Singe, draw, and truss the duck, slice the onion, and put it into a baking-tin; place the duck on the top, baste with hot fat, and roast in a moderate oven for ½ an hour, basting frequently. In the meantime, melt the butter, stir in the flour, and cook over the fire until a brown roux or thickening is formed, then add the stock, stir until boiling, and simmer until required. When the duck is sufficiently roasted, remove the trussing string, cut the bird into small joints, add these with the olives to the sauce, season well, and simmer gently for about ½ an hour. Return the baking-tin to the oven until the slices of onion are tender, then rub them through a fine hair sieve, and add them to the contents of the stewpan. Drain off every particle of fat, and add the sediment in the baking-tin to the sauce. When it is ready dish the salmi in the centre of a hot dish on a croute of fried bread, pour over the sauce, and the olives. Serve hot.
Time.—About 1 hour. Average Cost, 4s. to 5s. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
The Wild Duck.—In many parts of England the wild duck is to be found, especially in desolate fenny places where water is abundant. Wild ducks are plentiful in Lincolnshire, and are taken in the decoys, or ponds situated in the marshes, and surrounded with wood or reeds to prevent the birds which frequent them from being disturbed. The birds sleep in these ponds during the day, and as soon as the evening sets in the decoy-duck rises, for the wild ducks feed during the night. Now is the time for the decoy-ducks to entrap the others. From the ponds in different directions canals diverge, at the end of which funnel-shaped nets are placed. Along these the decoy-ducks lead the others in search of food. When they have gone a certain length a decoy-man appears, and drives the birds further on until they are finally taken in the nets. The London market is largely supplied from the Lincolnshire fens. The Chinese have a singular method of capturing wild ducks. A man having his head covered with an empty calabash wades in the water up to his chin, and approaches the place where the ducks are swimming. The unsuspicious birds allow the calabash to move among them at will. The man accordingly walks about in the midst of the game, pulls them by the legs under the water, and fixes the ducks to his belt until he has secured as many as he requires, and then moves off without the birds discovering the trick played upon them. This mode of duck-hunting is also practised on the Ganges, earthen vessels being used by the Hindus instead of calabashes.
The male of the wild duck is called a "mallard," and the young ducks "flappers." The time to try to find a brood of these is about the month of July among the rushes of the deepest and most retired parts of some brook or stream, where, if the old bird is sprung, it may be assumed that its brood is not far off. When once found flappers are easily killed, as they attain their full growth before their wings are fledged. The sport, therefore, more resembles hunting water-rats than shooting birds. When the flappers take wing they are then called wild ducks, and about the month of August they betake themselves to the cornfields, remaining there until disturbed by the harvest operations. The wild ducks then frequent the rivers early in the evening, and afford excellent sport to those who possess the patience to wait for the birds. To recognize a wild duck it is only necessary to look at its claws, which should be black.
